#LisbonFashionWeek LEGACY – Day 1 SANGUE NOVO

Lisbon opens doors to the SS15 National Fashion Event that brings together Designers, Creators, Brands, Artists, Photographers and Journalists. For now, and proudly, I remain in the last category, and this edition in collaboration with Portugal Confidential.

Lisbon Fashion Week Tradition says that… Day 1 Opens with our Youngest Talents – SANGUE NOVO. These were my favorites:

Olga Noronha

Inspired by the aurora borealis, her vision meant to have the audience feel something as the lights went out and her concept came to life in beautiful colors. Many times criticized for her lack of wearability, this is a conceptual designer with a message that goes far beyond fabric and clothes. Quite refreshing in the Portuguese industry, if you ask me.

Inês Duvale

Karma. Translated into imprinted circular shapes in a cold pallet of white, greys and dark blues, the high execution level was undeniable. There was an Asian feel to the looks, perhaps in the layers and cut combination. The earpieces by Inês Nunes (an inspiring Portuguese jeweler) completed this strong menswear vision. I wondered “Would I want my boyfriend to wear this?” easy answer:  Yes! Inês Duvale was selected by Branko Popovic to showcase her work at the next FashionClash in Holland.

 

Nair Xavier

Inspired by one of my favorite flowers, Orchids, this young and talented designer found her inspiration in the wide range of colors this flower species has to offer. Great tailoring, fantastic palette and intelligent styling have been her trademark. But in this collection she took it further by transporting her audience to a colorful universe in a South American country. I was taken to Panama and in my head was dancing to salsa!

 

Rua 148

Graphic prints have been quite the inspiration over the last seasons and according to the duo Francisca Veiga and Elisa Boto, they will remain one for SS15. What I loved here was how colorful their collection was. Fresh and Young but still with an edgy feel to it, this something I could easily see on Lisbon streets. I would style it up with some heels, but hey, that is my vision!

 

Joaquim Correia

Playing with different raw fabrics and exploring their potential through different techniques made Joaquim Correia clearly stand out, quite positively and his own right, from the other designers. One might question the full wearability of the pieces, however, it would impossible to deny the strong vision behind it. I was reminded of an early post about Bio Couture. We might just have our own twist to it right here.

 

As for the other designers that showcased their work during the SANGUE NOVO event, I found that some of the collection lacked a strong point of view when compared to the above. It is important to think about the styling because I have noticed that in some cases what failed was a poor combination of pieces, a week choice of shoes that took the attention from what truly was important. Having the right model, walking in the right shoes, with the right styling makes an entire difference and can take a look from ordinary to extraordinary in a split second.

Having said that, it is inspiring to see what these new fashion designers are coming up with. For that, I stand up and raise a glass: Well done!

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